Kasuti Embroidery on Net - Step by Step Tutorial

I've had this fabric from an old salwar for close to 10 years. I finally found a project for it. I thought, I'll use this for my 'Kasuti Using Net' sampler and turn it into a wallet.

I've attached the net to fabric. The steps are explained below.

Positioning the Motifs

I plan to work 3 stand alone motifs on this strip. So, I folded the fabric along with the net in half both lengthwise and width wise and marked the center. Alternately, you can either measure it out or if you have the time and patience count out the number of squares in the net. I should have worked the center motif first. But the thought somehow did not occur to me. 

To mark the position of my first motif, I folded the part of the fabric to the left of the center such that the seam line aligned with the center. The starting point 'S' is 3 stitches lengths away from the center. I've marked the center with an X in the graph above. The 3 black horizontal lines from X to S indicate 3 stitch spaces.

Net Vs Graph

The adjacent image should clarify any doubts you may have about the relationship between the vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines on the graph versus the net.

Making The Knot

Kasuti is supposedly a style that is worked without knots. Remember the embroidery is reversible and for the embroidery to be truly reversible, the work should look very neat on both sides. But I prefer to use knots. I wouldn't want the embroidery to unravel. So, here's how I've worked my knot. It neatly secures the beginning yarn. Here are the steps

Step 1: Pick up about 2 threads of fabric (in the direction B to A) with your needle and pull it through leaving just about 1/2cm of yarn (tail yarn). Hold the tail yarn down firmly with your left thumb. Take the needle around to B again as indicated by the pink arrow and pull the yarn through the same space.  The other steps are clear enough. Hold the 1/2 cm tail down firmly or it will slip through and you'll have to repeat the process. You can click on the image for a slightly enlarged version.

Kasuti Embroidery on Net Grid

Now that we got the basics out of the way, use the images below to guide you through working the motif on net.

I've completed all the side trips in the first half of the onward journey and reached the center of the motif.

I've completed the onward journey including all the side-trips and I've run out of yarn. The image below shows how to weave the yarn into the pattern on the reverse.

Here's the completed motif

Use the method above for working running motifs (motifs are arranged to form a continuous running pattern) Complete the onward along with the side trips till the end and then work the return trip.

For stand alone motifs, it is easier to start at the center and treat each arm of the pattern as separate journeys complete with side trips. That's how I worked the motif the 2nd time.  Check out the image on the left.

I've started at the center, completed the left side of the pattern and returned to the center.

In the picture on the left, the right onward journey.  When I complete the return journey, I'll get back to the center where I started.

Removing Net

 If you closely observe the warp and weft yarn of the net, you'll see that the warp has 2 strands of twisted yarn and while the weft a single strand.  It's therefore easier to remove the weft yarn. So that's what we'll do.

Removing the net is easy enough where there's no pattern to hinder it.

When the pattern makes it tricky, insert a needle under it and gently pry it loose as shown in the image on the below.

Once all the weft thread covered by the motif is removed, a gentle tug is all it takes to completely remove the net.

 Hope this helps. If you like this post share it and do leave your comments.

Kasuti Sampler

I've prepared a sampler with a few patterns ranging from basic to challenging. Click on the images to enlarge.
Patterns 1 and 2 are worked in Muragi; The Holbein stitch is worked as zig-zag lines.

The third and fourth require a bit more attention and concentration. They are worked in Ganti style; uses horizonatal, vertical and diagonal lines.

The peacock motif below employs the Ganti style style as well; and is sightly more complicated mostly because of the number of side trips involved. On closer observation, you'll see that the 2nd peocock image is of the reverse side of fabric and not a flipped image.

 Negi Kasuti - uses the same technique as weaving.

The motif above is called the Padma or the lotus.  Next to the Gopur or the temple dome, this motif is the most popular.  I have not removed the net I used as grid for counting. You can try this design once you master the basics. It's complicated, but not that complicated. Remember nothing is really as difficult as it might as first seem.  All we need to do is analyse it, decide on a course of action and work on it.

The image below showcases of the reverse side of fabric. You can see why Kasuti is called reversible. Except for the finished ends woven in, the pattern looks exactly the same on both sides of the fabric.

This now is a tough one.  It is done in a style called Murugi kasuti (meaning twisted). Motifs typical to this style have a lot of zigzags.  It is easy to get lost trying to work this motif. But if you decide on a path and stay on course, you'll make it in.

Free Online Kasuti Embroidery Tutorial Sample 2.2 - Basic Side-Trips

Here's the motif for this lesson.

For this session, I thought I'll take you through the steps involved in using a net for the kasuti embroidery. Here's my worked sample on net.

Here's what it looks like after removing the net. I plan to make this into a purse. Click on the image enlarge.

Before we get into working on a net, let's analyse the motif as usual. I'll explain how to use the net in my next post.  Here are the steps for the forward journey.

Start at 1 and complete all side-trips as you go along. As in life, in embroidery too, it's better to tackle tricky problems head on and be done with it.

The return journey as you can see from the image above is very simple only because we finished all the side trips in the onward journey itself.

Notes: 

First work this as a stand alone motif 2-3 times.  Once you get the hang of it, you may want to try this as a running border. To make the border, I placed 2 motifs adjacent to each other and added a horizontal connecting line.

As always, if you have any problems with working this pattern, let me know and I'll help you out.

I'll walk you through the steps involved in working with a net in my next post.

The Similarity of Russian Embroidery to Kasuti

I've been was talking about embroidery styles around the world that use the same principles as Kasuti. I discovered Free Historic Old Pattern Books.The website is a treasure house for old patterns lovers.

I've linked to the page that has a book full of patterns similar to Kasuti and Blackwork.  It also has a bit of Assissi Embroidery thrown in for good measure.

Take a look at the images below. Looks like a fusion of styles. Yet, these patterns are unique to Russian Embroidery.

 The picture above could easily be mistaken for a kausti design. But the quill like projections is not a part of a typical kasuti pattern.

The one above looks like a typical Assissi motif. But it's not. The negative space in this motif is filled with the four-sided stitch as opposed to cross-stitch used in Assissi Embroidery.

The one above has a design structure similar to Kasuti Embroidery. But Kasuti embroidery only ever has zig- zag or diagonal or long horizontal lines.  Not curves.

The one above looks like a combination of Kasuti and Kutchwork. But take a closer look at what looks like a typical Kutchwork border.  It's not what it appears to be. Individual motifs are connected by zig-zag lines.

The picture above has the flavour of Spanish Blackwork. Yet it isn't.

Despite these distinctions, the common thread that connects all these styles is that they all employ the Holbein stitch and they are all reversible.

Kasuti Embroidery - Peacock

For those of you who are already well versed in Kasuti embroidery, here's a beautiful peacock border.  I copied the design from a saree border.

This design uses the muragi kasuti style (zig-zag) predominantly.

Skill level: If you love challenges go ahead and try this out. But if you are one of those people who give up on a project at the first sign of trouble, this is not for you.

Tip: Work the outlines in the onward journey and work all the side-trips in the return journey. Less confusion that way.

Ideas:
1. Leave a small gap and repeat the double peacock if you plan to use this on a saree border or kameez border.
2. Here's what you can do for a cushion cover.

I plan to use it on an unbleached cotton kurta with a 1/2" blood red band. I am not a fan of the tracing for Kasuti embroidery. I love using the Calico net. I'll blog the steps and progress.

Have Fun. I'd love it if you can share the projects you use this design on.

Free Online Kasuti Embroidery Tutorial Sample 2.1 - Two Tier Motif

Introduction to Side Trips - A Simple Motif
If you are done with the first 3 samples and the assignment, you are ready to venture into side trips. In this session, we'll try to understand the nuances of side-trips.  I've used a different colour for side trips for ease of reference only. 

Let's start this session of free online step by step Kasuti Embroidery tutorial with a simple motif. The style employed here is Ganti.

Ganti Kasuti: The Holbein stitch is worked in straight, vertical, horizontal or diagonal lines.
Designs that Employ this style:  Octogons, hexagons, swastikas (I'll add more as I come across them)

Here's Sample 2.1.

You can download a graph sheet ideal for Kasuti. Just click on Graph sheet to get your copy. Let me know if the link is broken.

 Step 1 is the onward journey + the side trips.

Notice that though 1-3 is a straight line, we work it as 2 lines. All vertical and horizontal stitches are equidistant. For obvious reasons, the diagonal lines are slightly longer.

Step 2 = return journey

Now try working the motif in a single colour. 

If you have any doubts, let me know.

Free Online Kasuti Embroidery Tutorial Sample 1.3 - Closed Design

If you're here today, it means you've you didn't have any major hassles with turning corners in the previous sample. You are ready to learn how to work a closed motif. This is the last sample of this session..

1. Copy the design to your graph paper and transfer it to fabric.

2. Start at point '1' and continue working using the numbers to guide your path until you reach '48'.

3. Now for the return trip. Point '1' in the forward journey, becomes point 'a' in the return trip. Bring the thread up at 'a' and follow the path laid out by the letters and finish at the point indicated by the arrow (point 2 in the forward journey).

Try working the same pattern using a single colour.

Let me know what you think of this. If you have doubts, leave a comment. Also post pictures of your work in your blog and send me the link.

We'll end this session with an assignment - The Serpent Coil Border. It's simple enough. So, I am not giving a step by step.

Let me know how you are doing.